by vagabondette on April 12, 2009
The Backpacker’s hostel is my 2nd favorite hostel in Mexico (behind the Santa Lucia in Merida) and is by far the best that I’ve stayed at in San Cristobal.
The two main disadvantages of this hostel are: 1 - it’s the most expensive. However, since they have stay 3 get 1 free and Thursdays are 1/2 off specials the average nightly rate can actually be quite low. 2 - it’s further away from the center of town than most of the other hostels. Some people might find the walk to be a pain but it’s really only a few blocks so it hasn’t been a problem for most people I’ve talked to here.
The hostel has several options on dorm sizes from 14 bed to 4 bed and several private rooms.
This is the place to be if you want to be social. With good music playing, a central courtyard to hang out in and nightly bonfires it’s easy to strike up conversations with other travelers.
The breakfast leaves a bit to be desired (2 pieces of bread with coffee/tea) but the kitchen is large and well-equipped so it’s easy to cook on your own. It’s also located close to the big market for shopping and the artisan market for souveniers.
The staff are friendly and helpful and if you like animals you’ll get your fix here with 2 dogs and several cats who crave attention and are more than willing to cuddle for the night.
by vagabondette on April 7, 2009
The Maria Bonita hostel is the first of three hostels that I visited while I was in San Cristobal. Located just a few blocks from the main square it is not only the most central hostel it’s the least expensive of the three.
Offering 2 dorms and a private room, the Maria Bonita is small but friendly. There is a large dining table, a nice roof deck with grill and seating, a common area with a TV and games and the beds are comfortable and come equipped with the necessary thick blankets.
My biggest complaint about the Maria Bonita is that there are only 4 bathrooms and they all have a shower/toilet so going to the bathroom in the morning can be challenging if everyone else is showering. I also wasn’t impressed with their internet situation. They have wifi but no computers and the wifi is free for the first night but after than you’re supposed to pay 30 MXN for the rest of your time there. Weird. On the plus side they do offer a nice breakfast with cereal, fruit, juice, yogurt and bread.
While I was there, the visitors were not overly friendly but that can change day-to-day but I still feel it’s probably a pretty quiet hostel so probably not where you want to go if having a party is top on your list of things to do.
by vagabondette on April 6, 2009
If you talk to most travelers heading through Campeche they’ll tell you to stay at the Monkey Hostel. While I can see the draw, for me it was the worst hostel experience I’ve had on this trip.
The hostel is in a great location, has a great view, a roof deck overlooking the Zocalo and Cathedral and has a nice common space, but it’s missing a key ingredient to being able to sleep: Aircon.
I have no idea why a hostel in a place that reaches 90-110 degrees would not have airconditioning. Instead, they rely on weak ceiling fans and cross-ventilation to keep the rooms clean. This might work, except that the night we were there, there were people (including staff) partying and being loud in the common room until 5 am. This meant that unless you felt like joining the party, the door to the room had to be closed.
At around 2 AM I finally gave up when I checked the thermometer on my bag and discovered it was 95 F in our room. At that point, I took my sheets, my yoga mat and my pillow and went to camp outside on the balcony. Said balcony was about 18″ wide and made of concrete so it was less than comfortable. The only saving grace was that it was 20 degrees cooler out there.
The only positive thing about my experience at the Monkey Hostel was the fact that because I was forced to be awake all night I was able to see the sunrise from the roof and was up to wander the town before it got too hot. Other than that it was a complete waste and I would not stay there again during the hot months.
by vagabondette on April 4, 2009
Things to do and see in/around Merida, Mexico:
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- Art Galleries (both fine art as well as local crafts)
- Live Theater/Symphony Performances
- Noche Mexicana - every Friday at the start of the Pasaeo de Montejo. Excellent place to go listen to some live music and watch some traditional dancing. There are craft stalls and amazing food as well.
- The church on the main square is the oldest cathedral in Mesoamerica. It is built from the stones of demolished Mayan ruins.
- Weekend Fiesta in the Zocalo – Every weekend they close down the main square and have dancing and music and other performances. There are tons of craft and food stalls as well.
- Celestun – go see the flamingos, wander the beach and have lunch at one of the shacks (avoid Boyo restaurant)
- Progresso – Great if you need a day at the beach
- Cenotes – there are several cenotes in the area and you can do one set of three by taking a collectivo, then a trici taxi, then a horse-drawn cart from a little town about 40 minutes from Merida.
- Uxmal – Uxmal is beautiful and only about 1.5-2 hours from Merida via bus. Or, if you have several people it may make sense to rent a car and visit several of the other sites in the area while you have the chance.
- Chichen Itza – After hearing from several people that Chichen Itza is over-rated and there are much better ruins to visit I decided to give it a pass. However, if it’s on your list, it’s an easy day trip from Merida.
Places to eat in Merida:
- El Trapiche – on Calle 62 between 57 and 61, on the right side of the street as you head towards the Zocalo. It doesn’t look like much but the food is great and very cheap. Try the Salbutes or Panuchos.
- Café Hoya – On Calle 62 between 57 and 59, on the right side of the street as you head towards the Zocalo. Mostly a local hang out, this is a great place to exchange a book, get a coffee or have a sandwich. They also have great cheesecake. Prices are reasonable and at night it’s a great place to people watch in their open courtyard. Very gay friendly environment.
- Amaros – this is the old standard in Merida and seems to be the place for tourists to go. On most nights they account for 90+% of the customers. The food is passable and if you’re a vegetarian this is one of the few places in town that really does veg food. You’ll be able to find it in any guide book.
- Pane y Vino – great homemade Italian pasta with various sauces. The sauces aren’t consistent but the food was always decent and they have a pretty good Pinot Grigio by the glass as well. It is on Calle 62 between 59 and 61 on the left as you’re heading towards the Zocalo. It’s only open for dinner.
- Pizza Rafaelo – the best pizza I’ve had in Mexico (others agree) by far. Fresh, wood fired with a thin, crispy crust. Will definitely satisfy your craving. It’s on Calle 60 between 51 and 47 on the right side of the road as you head away from the Zocalo.
- Bar Latino (I think this is the name, I just call it botana bar) – if you’re on a budget but still want the occasional beer, this is a great alternative. With your (24 MXN) beer you get an amazing array of botanas (free appetizers) ranging from Ceviche to Pumpkin spread (yummy!). They close early though so get there before 7:30 if you want to be able to eat anything. It’s on Calle 59 between 54 and 50 on the left side of the road if you’re heading away from the Centro. It’s small but look for a sign that says Botanas on the door and you should be able to find it.
- Eladios – another place to go if you want some free nibbles but the beer is more expensive and you’re more likely to hear English or German from the visitors than Spanish. It’s on the corner of Calle 59 and 44.
- Maya Pub – if you’re looking for somewhere to go later at night (bars close early in Merida) this is a great option. They have live music on the weekends and you can get a pitcher of beer for 77 MXN. The music can be hit or miss but it’s still a fun atmosphere in the evenings, full of locals catching up with old friends and tourists watching the locals.
- La Choperia – A mixture of Brazillian and Mexican foods, this new restaurant is very nice. They’re known for their Chope beer which is fresh and has a great flavor. The food was also very nice and great quality for the price. Get the mashed potato and beef stew starter if you have someone to split it with. You can ask around for directions or look in the Yucatan Today magazine for their advert.
Places to stay in Merida:
I stayed in three places in Merida, not including my couch surfing experience:
- Presidente Intercontinental – This is pretty much like any other 4* hotel in the world. Nice comfey beds, big bathrooms and thick comforters. Though I’m a budget traveler, I occasionally like to splash out and treat myself to somewhere nice and private for a couple nights. My main motivation this time was a big comfey bed and aircon. I was able to get this hotel for $50/night through priceline.com so try that first if you don’t want to pay the $190/night rack rate.
- Nomadas Hostel – the most well known hostel in Merida it seems to be where most people go first. I was not impressed and it’s not where I would recommend going.
- Hostal Santa Lucia – Smaller and MUCH friendlier than Nomadas it’s also cheaper and has a better breakfast so it gets my very enthusiastic thumbs up recommendation.
