Vagabondette

It’s strange to think that this is my last night in Mexico for several months and maybe my last night ever in Merida.  This country, that I never intended to visit, has captured my heart.  The warmth of the people, the culture and the comfortable atmosphere has made me feel at home even though at times I’m sure I stuck out like a sore thumb.

I’ve spent the last couple days in Merida visiting my old haunts but mostly visiting with friends.  It’s been great to see everyone again even though Alex is gone and we didn’t get a chance to meet up.  I’m not sure if/when I’ll be back but I know that when I return I’ll have a home waiting here.

Tomorrow I leave for the US.  I’ll be traveling for approximately 24 hours straight and I’m not particularly looking forward to it.  My first stop is Palm Springs where I’ll spend a few days with Rob, the owner of the boat I might be sailing on early next year.  We want to spend some time getting to know each other before we set out just to make sure that we click in person.  it feels a bit like a job interview or a first date but it should be fun and I’ve never been to Palm Springs before so that will be nice.

For now I’m going to take once last walk down to the Zocalo to say goodbye to Merida.

I’m not sure what I expected from a visit to Palenque, but I didn’t get it.  I think I expected it to be much larger, to have more ruins and to be just generally more.  Rather than the wild, sprawling jungle ruins I anticipated what I found was a fairly small site that was manicured like a park.  I have to admit, I was a bit disappointed.

One thing that I liked was watching the families.  I went on a Sunday when entrance is free for Mexican citizens so the place was crawling with families having  picnics and climbing on the ruins.  I also enjoyed the walk through the woods to the waterfall.  It was cool and peaceful and I could have stayed in that one spot all day had it not been for the annoying teenagers who were camped out there.

I visited the ruins during a break in the trip from San Cristobal to Merida so I was just spending a day there.  Since the ruins were smaller than I anticipated I ended up with a lot of time to kill in town.  Palenque is a cute little town and, as you head away from the bus station, the streets become lined with cute little shops and restaurants.  It is clearly a tourist town but it has a nice atmosphere and I enjoyed my explorations.  I ended up camping out in a restaurant on the edge of the plaza at the end of the main road.  The bar was on the second floor and was open-air so it was nice to sit and enjoy the breeze, people watching in the plaza and the live music that started as the sun set.  It was good to relax before my last bus trip to Merida.

I walked past Posada 5 several times on my way to/from Backpackers/Na Bolom before I stopped in.  I was getting sick of dorm life and since Posada 5 had gotten some good reviews I thought I’d see how much a private room was.

The Posada is fairly small with 5-6 private rooms and a dorm with 10-12 beds.  The kitchen is not as nice as the Backpackers Hostel and there really isn’t a central sitting area besides the kitchen but the prices more than make up for it.  Dorm beds (single level, not bunk) are only 50 MXN/night which is 1/2 the cost of the cheapest dorm at Backpackers.  My single room was 75 MXN/night.  It’s the cheapest because there is no window but even the one with a window was only 85 MXN/night.  If there are two it’s even cheaper.  They also allow camping for, I think, 40 MXN/night.

The bed I slept in (queen size) was very comfey though the other bed in the room (single) was NOT.

One of the best things about Posada 5 (aside from the cheap prices) was the view.  It’s situated on top of a hill and the back patio overlooks a large, grassy back yard with swing set and a couple of run-down hammocks but what really grabs you is the view.  From the top of the yard you can look over the main downtown area and across the valley to the mountains on the other side.  The view is just beautiful and I would have loved to have seen last night’s lightening storm from the patio.

The Posada seems to be more geared towards couples and families so if meeting lots of other young travelers and going out partying is your goal the Backpackers is probably a better option.  But, if you’re ready for some alone time and a private room to call your own I think Posada 5 is a great option.

Bar Revolution is one of the most famous bars in San Cristobal – and for good reason.  I’ve been twice now and had two different, but enjoyable experiences.

The first time I went with a group from the Backpackers Hostel we saw a band called Fraktal who played some of the most unique music I’ve ever heard.  A combo of Cello, Guitar, Voice, Drum, Accordion, Keyboard and more, some of their songs had hints of Rusted Root but most were 100% unusual.  Strange as they were, the entire group loved them and we all purchased copies of their CDs.  Take a listen:

The second time I went was with my from Julio from the party in Tuxtla and there was a jazz band which was good but who I only heard for a few minutes before their set was done.

Before all the stupid swine flu crap they used to do two shows each night at Revolution but these days, since crowds are down, they only have one show a night.  Hopefully it’ll go back to normal soon when people realize that the swine flu is not really the big problem that the media has turned it into.

On the second trip to Revolution I discovered the upstairs bar which was nice (and probably a bit more quiet) and has a nice row of padded seats.  I also learned that while they close their doors at midnight, if you’re in you can continue drinking until 1 am and hang out until they kick you out.

If you’re looking for a good group of locals and tourists it’s definitely the place to be.

I didn’t visit Na Bolom on my first swing through San Cris because frankly I’m not much of a museum kinda gal.  However, when I was in Tuxtla I met a man who works there and he told me more about it so Lindsey and I decided to check it out this afternoon and I’m glad I did.

While Na Bolom is a museum it’s also much more.  The former house of European explorers it’s full of the history and artifacts of the local indegenous tribes.  I really enjoyed the stories that were told about how the different animals were created and learning more about the beliefs of some of the local cultures.

We also spent some time wandering the extensive gardens which was very nice.  You wouldn’t believe that you’re in the middle of the city when you’re surrounded by beautiful flowers, fruit trees and medicinal plants.

It’s a good museum for people who don’t speak good Spanish because everything is translated into English and if you stop in the reception area you can get an English language guide that gives you more history about the couple.  The guide is a bit out of date but the information is interesting.

Na Bolom cost 35 MXN for entry and there is ann optional tour that you can take which is supposed to be very good.  There is a restaurant on site that supposedly has great food as well as a hotel if you feel like a splurge.

Tonala doesn’t have much going for it aside from easily accessible markets and pharmacies which is why I came here.  After the limited supplies in Puerto Arista I needed a bit more modern convenience but I wasn’t feeling well enough to continue on to San Cris so I decided to stop for the night at the Hotel Galilea in Tonala.

The hotel is more expensive than I would normally pay (300 MXN/night for one person) but one of the cheapest in town and the air conditioning was a nice treat.  The rooms are clean, the beds (king size) are comfey and there’s a TV in each room with cable (including English channels).

Located right on the main square it’s convenient to the busses (first and second class) as well as restauarants, the market and other things.

If you have to stay the night in Tonala – likely on your way to somewhere else – it’s a good option.  The restaurant serves decent food at reasonable prices and there is free WiFi as well.

When I rolled up to Jose’s Campground I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, but it certainly wasn’t a party.  Jose (Joe) a Canadian who has lived in the area for about 30 years was hosting a retirement party for a friend of his and the joint was jumping.

After showing me to my cabin (150 MXN/night with 1 queen bed and 1 twin along with a private porch) I was invited to join the party and it was a night to remember.  With live music, more cerveza than I knew what to do with and some darn good food, there wasn’t much to complain about.

The guests were very welcoming of the random American dropped into their midst and made me very welcome even giving me lessons on how to eat like a Mexican.  The guest of honor – a rather tipsey man in his late 50s – seemed to take a particular shine to me and invited me to dance several times which, by the end of the night was more stumble than salsa.

The rest of my nights were much more quiet but if you happen to be there when Jose is throwing a party, hold on to your hat because it’ll be quite a ride.

Jose’s might not be the most convenient hotel since it’s not right on the beach (it’s 2 blocks away) and it’s about a 10 minute walk from town but the price is definitely right and it was nice having a private cabin.  Their showers were also some of the best I’ve had since I’ve been in Mexico with actual real water pressure.  You also can’t beat being able to walk out your front door and pick a fresh mango for breakfast.

After weeks upon weeks in cities I decided it was time to get off the beaten track a bit.  While at the party in Tuxtla I was told about the tiny coastal town of Puerto Arista and I decided it sounded like just the ticket.

Puerto Arista, is located on the Pacific coast and is ideal if you’re looking to just get away.  While I was there, I had the beach to myself during the day – aside from the occasional fisherman – and in the evenings would be joined by a few families who would come out and play in the waves during sunset.

Fresh seafood is the main cuisine in town and is served at a variety of similar looking palapa topped restaurants all facing the beach.  Slide your feet into the sand while downing a cold corona, some fresh shrimp and watching the sunset – it’s not a bad way to spend the evening.

However, if you’re looking for nightlife, this is not the place to be.  I was the only person in most of the restaurants I visited and I would rarely see others when walking to/from my hotel.  It picks up a bit on the weekends and during Mexican holidays but I imagine it’s pretty much always a sleepy little town.

If you need modern conveniences like TV, Internet, shopping, etc. it’s also probably not for you as there is a single place to access the internet and I didn’t see a TV.  There are also not really any markets, just stalls along the side of the road that sell incidentals.

If you’re looking for a spot for swimming, PA is not the place.  While the water is warm and clean and shallow, there is a wicked rip tide that can make standing, much less swimming, treacherous.

Getting there:  You can take a first or 2nd class bus and then you grab a shared taxi (mine held 6 adults and 2 kids) for 15 MXN to the coast.  They’ll drop you either in the center of “town” or for an extra 10 MXN will drop you at your hotel.

The scenery in Chiapas is amazingly beautiful.  Ranging from clean beaches to rain forest to pine tree topped mountains it has something for everyone.  One of the most famous natural beauties in Chiapas is the Canyon Sumidero. Located between San Cristobal and Tuxtla, the canyon is a must see in the area.

While I viewed the canyon on a day trip from Tuxtla, there are several tour agencies from San Cristobal that offer trips and, while I’m generally not a fan of organized tours, considering how confusing the transportation can be, I think it’s a good alternative.

You start your adventure in the canyon in the small town of Chiapa de Corzo.  There are your typical tourist amenities such as shopping, internet, hotels, restaurants, etc. but I think that generally people only come for one reason.

The launches for the boat trips all leave from one location.  As you make your way past the restaurants along the river you’ll see a ticket desk on the right but most likely someone will stop you before you get there to ask if you need a ticket.  Tickets are 150 MXN for the 3-hour ride.

The first few kilometers of the trip are pretty but nothing spectacular.  However you do have the chance to see some of the local fauna in the form of Crocodiles, Deer, Herons, Vultures and other wildlife.  We didn’t see any deer on our trip but plenty of the others.

The real reason for the trip will slowly become apparent as the hills on either side of the river begin to get higher and closer until eventually you’re in the middle of the canyon looking at the 800m high walls on either side of you.  You suddenly feel very small.

The cliffs are covered with greenery and the exposed rocks are streaked with mineral deposits left by hundreds of years of erosion.  Along the cliffs you see caves (one of which has been turned into a religious shrine) and rock formations taking on the appearance of various people and objects (including a Christmas tree).

At the turn around point your guide will give you a little history of the area (in Spanish) while you float around the small lake formed by a dam in the river.  My trip included a stop at one of the restaurants located before the dam but apparently that doesn’t happen on all of the trips so make sure you hit the bano before you get on the boat.

Unfortunately it started to rain on the way back so I spent the entire time huddled under a tarp rather than enjoying the scenery but it was still a highlight of the trip and I highly recommend taking a day out of your schedule to visit Canyon Sumidero.

For the first time on my trip I’m in a non-colonial city.  I’ve become used to the main square, older buildings, cobble streets and interesting atmosphere so Tuxtla – which looks like it could be any city in southern Florida – was a bit of a change.

Since it’s not a major tourist destination (typically just a place to change busses for other locations) there are limited options for budget lodging so I decided to see if I could do some couch surfing.  I was lucky enough to be adopted by a 20-something local guy who let me take over his guest room.

Gabriel was very welcoming and my first night there we went out with a friend of his for a drink.  It was a bit more challenging than you would initially think considering that everywhere we tried to go was closed but I got an interesting tour of Tuxtla in the process.

My second night there, after I’d spent the afternoon exploring town, I returned to a party.  Gabriel had been to a football match with some of his friends and family and they’d all returned to his house after to drown their sorrows about he loss.  It was a fun evening and I spent a lot of time talking to two of his cousins who both live in San Cristobal – would have been nice to know them when I was there before!

The next night I didn’t get a chance to see my host before I left but I did have a nice chat with his house mate.  All-in-all it was a very positive surfing experience in what could have otherwise been a very dull city.